Journal

A full moon over Masherbrum

· 3 min read

Camp under the stars at Goro II
In this story
  1. Camps on the way to Concordia
  2. Why the cold is the thing to pack for
  3. What we changed
  4. Sleep and altitude
  5. Days on the glacier
  6. Your night kit

A night at 4,300 metres, and why we now carry insulated sleeping tents on every Baltoro departure. On the K2 Base Camp trek, the nights above the Baltoro Glacier are as much a part of the journey as the days, and they shape how we plan and what we ask you to pack.

Camps on the way to Concordia

The route climbs steadily: Paiju, Khoburtse, then Urdukus, a grassy perch facing Trango and Cathedral Towers. On the tenth day the group reaches Goro II and camps on the glacier itself, before the last stage to Concordia at around 4,600 metres.

The trek begins with the Trango Towers, granite spires so vertical they look photoshopped. Then Masherbrum, the Cathedral, Gasherbrum IV glowing pink at sunset. Each camp feels like a new room in an enormous stone cathedral, and from Concordia, K2, Broad Peak, the Gasherbrums and Masherbrum line up in a single panorama.

Why the cold is the thing to pack for

On routes that sleep above 4,000 metres, the cold is the thing to pack for. Bring a warmer sleeping bag, a heavier down jacket, insulated gloves and glacier grade sunglasses. Your sleeping bag should suit the lowest night temperature on your route, and a liner adds warmth for very little weight.

What we changed

That night at 4,300 metres is why insulated sleeping tents now go on every Baltoro departure. Camping equipment and trekking meals are part of the expedition, so the shelter you sleep in is our responsibility, not yours.

Sleep and altitude

Headache, poor sleep and loss of appetite are common in the first days at altitude. Tell your guide about any symptom, however small. If symptoms get worse, the treatment is to go down, and your guide makes that call.

The itinerary is paced for this, with rest and acclimatization days at Paiju and at Concordia, and a reserve day for weather. Height is gained gradually, with rest days built in.

Days on the glacier

The nights come after long days. A Grade IV trek means six to eight hours a day for many days in a row, on glacier and moraine, sleeping above 4,000 metres and reaching above 5,000. The Gondogoro La crossing adds a technical section on top of that, with fixed ropes and crampons.

Weather sets the rest of the timetable. Conditions change quickly and can close a pass, ground a flight or hold a group in camp for a day. That is why the itinerary carries a reserve day, and why your guide decides each morning whether the group moves on.

If your trek goes above 3,000 metres, talk to your doctor about altitude illness and about acetazolamide (Diamox) before you go. It is a prescription medicine, it does not suit everyone, and it is not a substitute for gaining height slowly.

Your night kit

  • Sleeping bag suited to the lowest night temperature on your route
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Down jacket, warm hat and buff
  • Liner gloves and warm gloves
  • Head torch and spare batteries
  • Water bottles or bladder, two litres in total
  • Power bank, the larger the better

The full list is in the Essential Packing & Equipment Checklist. Some trips give you photographs. This one rearranges your sense of scale.

From the trail

Tents pitched among large boulders with mountains behind

Tell us the month. We'll tell you what's possible.

Back to the journal